The first time I enjoyed this ice cream (which is called Éma’a) was at Bakdash Ice Cream parlor where it originated; Bakdash is in the Souk Al Hamidiyah in Damascus, Syria.  I recently had a craving for it and since Mike and I aren’t planning a trip back to Syria for a while, I knew I would have to come up with a recipe myself.  And what better time to make it than for the Eid?

Bakdash Ice Cream Parlor, Souk Al Hamidiya, Damascus, Syria (Image Source)

My very sweet mother-in-law told me the main ingredients in Éma’a, which are fairly well-known:  milk, Chios gum mastic, sugar, sahlab, and rose water (plus of course the pistachio coating!).  There are two ingredients that are somewhat uncommon – Chios gum mastic and sahlab – but both are available in Middle Eastern markets.

Chios gum mastic is a really interesting ingredient.  It comes in little yellow crystals (the medium-sized tears are about 1/2 cm wide by 1 cm tall) called tears, and has the look and feel of beach glass.  It has a strong perfume-y smell…I actually think it smells just like Tide laundry detergent.

Tears of Chios Gum Mastic

Here is what it says about mastic on the back of the tin:  “[Mastic is] a unique product with many beneficial qualities and wide-ranging uses since antiquity.  Nowadays, it is used in pharmaceuticals, perfumes, cosmetics, beverages, baking goods, sweets, as well as in cooking.  Mastiha is the natural resin of pistacia lentiscus variety Chia, a tree which grows only on the Aegean island of Chios, Greece.  Scientific research shows that Chios Mastiha has anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory and healing activity.  It contributes to a healthy gastrointestional system and has beneficial effects for both oral hygiene and skin care.”  (You can read more about Chios gum mastic or buy it online here.) 

Tin of Chios Gum Mastic

Sahlab is a mixture of cornstarch, sugar, and sahlab (roots of orchids mascula).  If you can’t find sahlab you can substitute an equal part of cornstarch plus a couple drops of orange blossom water.

Sahlab

After we bought these ingredients, the hardest part was figuring out the proportions of each.  After some trial and error I came up with a recipe that Mike and I both feel is a pretty close replication of the original.  I use 9 parts whole milk and 1 part heavy cream, but feel free to use all whole milk if you prefer.

Syrian Ice Cream (Éma’a)

(Yield:  About 10 cups)

9 c plus 1/4 c whole milk, divided

1 c heavy cream

4 medium pieces (about 1/4 tsp) Chios gum mastic

2 1/2 c sugar

5 tsp sahlab

3/4 tsp rose water

Chopped pistachios (for serving)

In a small bowl, whisk together 1/4 c milk with the sahlab; set aside. 

Grind the mastic into a powder; the best way to do this is to put the mastic between 2 pieces of parchment paper or inside a plastic bag and pound it with a heavy object, such as a rolling pin. 

In a medium-large pot over medium heat, combine 9 c milk, the cream, and the mastic; bring to a boil (stirring frequently).  Slowly whisk in the sugar and bring back up to a boil, stirring constantly.  Whisk in the sahlab mixture and boil vigorously 5 minutes.  Turn off the heat and add the rose water.  Cool to room temperature, then refrigerate until well chilled (about 4 hours).

Transfer the chilled mixture to an ice cream machine and process according to the manufacturer’s directions.  Once processed, put the ice cream in a freezer-safe bowl and transfer to the freezer to set.  Scoop out the ice cream and roll generously in chopped pistachios before serving.

Crumbs is a chain bakery with several locations in New York City as well as other places across the country.  The Crumbs motto is “Made by Hand.  Baked with Love.”  Sounds pretty good, right?  Well it gets even better.  Many of the cupcakes are filled with different fillings, including ganache, flavored frostings, and jams. 

So many choices!

In the picture below, I was trying to take a picture of the cupcake with the pretty flower on top.  Later when I looked at this picture I noticed the clerk in the background…I wonder what he was saying?

There are several Crumbs locations in NYC with seating areas; the location we went to was actually pretty spacious with quite a few tables (especially by NYC standards).

Mike had a chocolate croissant.  He said it was delicious – tender and flaky with the perfect amount of chocolate.

Chocolate Croissant

I had a Cookies and Cream Cupcake.  It had chocolate cake and vanilla cream cheese frosting mixed with crushed sandwich cookies, and was topped with a sandwich cookie.  It was amazing.  The cake was dark chocolaty, moist, and not overly sweet (just the way I like it!).  The frosting was really sweet, but there wasn’t a ton of frosting, so that worked out well.  The only thing I didn’t like was that the frosting was somewhat hardened and dry, but depending on the type of frosting that can happen even if it was made the same day.

Cookies and Cream Cupcake

We ordered a couple of cupcakes to sample later during the week and they are definitely worth mentioning…

I’m usually a chocolate girl, but my #1 favorite was the Raspberry Swirl Cupcake, which has vanilla cake filled with raspberry preserves and frosted with vanilla cream cheese frosting and a swirl of raspberry preserves.  The cake was super moist even though it wasn’t eaten the same day it was bought.  There was a really generous amount of the raspberry filling, and the taste of the preserves reminded me exactly of the filling in a raspberry jelly donut.  It was incredible. 

Raspberry Swirl Cupcake

The Red Velvet Cupcake was my #2 favorite.  It was classic red velvet cake topped with cream cheese frosting, then sprinkled with red velvet crumbs and edged with white sprinkles.  The beautiful red cake was rich with a moist, tender crumb and had the perfect hint of chocolate.  I have to say I think it actually might be the best red velvet cake I’ve ever had.

Red Velvet Cupcake

Next time a cupcake craving hits, I will probably be hitting up Crumbs again (and I probably won’t wait until our next trip to NYC…they have online ordering!). 

Crumbs Bake Shop (Garment Center Location)

1385 Broadway

(Between West 37th Street & West 38th Street) 

New York, NY 10018

Tel.:  212.764.7100

I hope everyone has a safe, happy Labor Day! Toasted Coconut Muffins

(Yield:  18 muffins)

2 c all-purpose flour

2 c coconut flour

2 tsp baking powder

1/2 tsp salt

2 large eggs

1 1/4 c low-fat or fat-free milk

2/3 c canola oil

1 large banana, mashed (about 1/2 c)

3/4 c sugar

1 tsp vanilla, coconut, or almond extract

1 c plus 6 TB sweetened flaked coconut, divided

1/3 c mini chocolate chips

1/3 c roughly chopped macadamia nuts

Muffin tray

Paper muffin liners

To toast the coconut and macadamia nuts:  We’re only toasting the coconut that will be used as a topping (6 TB); the remaining coconut (1 c) will be kept untoasted and mixed inside the batter to help keep the muffins moist.  Add 6 TB coconut to a small, dry pan over medium-low heat; stir frequently and remove from heat once the coconut is a light golden brown color.  Repeat this process with the macadamia nuts.  Let the coconut and nuts cool before adding to the batter.

Preheat the oven to 350F.  In a medium bowl, whisk or sift together the flours, baking powder, and salt.  In a separate large bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, oil, banana, sugar, and extract.  Slowly stir the dry ingredients into the wet just until incorporated.  Stir in the remaining 1 c coconut, chocolate chips, and nuts.  (The batter will be somewhat thick and lumpy, which is fine.)

Line the muffin tray with paper liners and fill each muffin well about 3/4 full with batter and sprinkle 1 tsp toasted coconut on the top of each muffin.  Bake for about 20-24 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted inside comes out with just a few crumbs.