When I think of tuna, I think of being a kid. Of schooltime lunches: cold sandwiches packed by my mom or hot open-face melts with cheese. Of the multitude of casseroles my mom used to make (so many casseroles!); I remember two in particular: a creamy one with peas and toast, and a crispy one topped with potato chips and brown sugar (they really did taste so much better than they sound). I think of summertime, picnics and parties, and cold tuna pasta salad. I love tuna, and for me, it’s just one of those foods that has a million memories attached to it.…